The history of traditional Bolognese ragù

The history of Ragù alla Bolognese begins with Pellegrino Artusi, a proto-ragù made with pork belly, veal, celery, carrot, and onion. Artusi also suggested adding dried mushrooms, truffles, chicken livers, and cream, but did not include tomato . This rich, flavorful white ragù followed the Bolognese tradition. At the beginning of the 20th century, the recipe underwent a transformation: the ragù was no longer used on macaroni but on tagliatelle (as Artusi had already suggested), and tomato was introduced. However, this version does not coincide with the one registered in 1982 at the Bologna Chamber of Commerce by the Italian Academy of Cuisine. On April 20, 2023, the Italian Academy of Cuisine registered a new version of the ragù alla Bolognese recipe , the result of extensive research. Forty years after the version registered in 1982, improvements have been made that also take into account changing eating habits. Clearly, like all long-standing recipes, ragù alla Bolognese is made differently, both in families and in restaurants, often with only minor variations. This registered recipe is intended to be a simple guide to making an excellent ragù, establishing a few key points. It goes without saying that, as with all artisanal recipes, it's the skill of the chef that truly makes the difference.

Ingredients and preparation of the new recipe (for 6 people)

Ingredients

• 400g coarsely minced beef
• 150g fresh pork belly
• half an onion (60g)
• 1 carrot (60g)
• 1 stalk of celery (60g)
• 1 glass of red or white wine
• 200g of tomato puree
• 1 tablespoon double concentrated tomato paste
• 1 glass of whole milk (optional)
• meat or vegetable broth
• 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
• salt and pepper

Preparation

The process involves cooking the pancetta and chopped herbs, followed by adding the ground meat, wine, and tomatoes. Cooking takes about 2-3 hours, with hot broth added as needed. Finally, milk can be added halfway through cooking and seasoned with salt and pepper.

Permitted variations include mixed meats, rolled pancetta, and a hint of nutmeg. Veal, smoked pancetta, pork only, garlic, rosemary, parsley, brandy, and flour are not permitted.

The notarial deed for the new recipe is now preserved at Palazzo della Mercanzia, along with thirty-four other traditional Bolognese recipes, registered since 1972. This update reflects changes in ingredients, cooking methods, and eating habits, while maintaining the classic flavor of authentic Ragù alla Bolognese. Follow us to learn more about our culinary tradition and be inspired by the recipes that have shaped the history of Bolognese cuisine!